Following the Demoiselle Cranes in Khichan

Khichan is a remote village in Rajasthan that was added to my travel wish-list a couple of years ago, but not because of its old forts or lost palaces, as is expected of the desert state. It caught my attention because of a unique story that has its origins dating back to the seventies. Khichan lies around a 100 km from Jodhpur, a sleepy old town that wakes up to the noisy arrival of Demoiselle Cranes every morning, from early August to mid March. A gateway to the great Thar Desert, it plays perfect host to these migratory birds, taking care of them as its own. 

It all began back in the 1970s when a local couple started feeding pigeons, and were surprised to see a handful of cranes joining the party. Since then, their number has only grown, with the village community joining hands so as to feed these guests from trans Eurasia. Today, almost 1500 kg of grain is laid out every single day, with the count of cranes now touching twenty thousand. Khichan is a great example of how a complete ecosystem came into existence, and how the lives and routines of people now revolve around those of these birds. 

So, last weekend, I decided to explore the known and the unknown of Khichan, trying to befriend these birds. The more I saw of them, the more they intrigued me. Demoiselle crane (Grus Virgo) is a species of crane found in central Eurasia, ranging from the Black Sea to Mongolia and North Eastern China. There is also a small breeding population in Turkey. These cranes are migratory birds that fly in search of favorable conditions all the way  from western Eurasia to spend the winter in warmer Africa and India. They dwell in groups and a spectacularly organised travel across continents brings them here. 

In fact, it is kind of unbelievable that these Demoiselle Cranes fly all the way from Eurasia to reach this remote village in Rajasthan every year, braving the mighty Himalayas and many a preying birds. Watching them in action was nothing short of a magical ballad. With the backdrop of a spectacular sunrise these cranes were sheer poetry in motion, or rather flight. One really has to see it to believe the magic of this journey. 

Khichan starts its day with the morning aarti at the village temple, right in time for sunrise. And that’s exactly when the first flock of birds fly out of their nests. They fly around the sky to the melody of the morning ragas, making it a perfect sunrise. In fact this was one of the most mesmerizing ones I have ever seen. Words won’t be enough to describe what the senses felt that morning, during the golden hour.

The birds follow a carefully etched out pattern that makes sense when you look at it from a scientific perspective. One may term it as survival instinct, or a sixth sense, depending on which side of spectrum you are on. Each group of cranes arranges itself in a queue, more like a sine wave of birds in the sky, with the younger ones in the middle and older ones on the ends. 

Once they are through with the initial aerial inspection, they land at an area that is largely empty, apart from a few stray shrubs growing here and there.

 Here, these cranes feast on stones for an hour or two. It is said that the minerals in the stones help them digest the last day’s food, and makes them ready for another long day. Maybe these stones are to cranes what coffee is to humans. Once they are done, they fly over and let other groups begin their morning ritual. Systematically organised flocks of birds arrive, feast and depart, making space for other groups. 

People of Khichan lay down grains for the birds every evening at the Feeding Home (locally called the Chugga Ghar, chugga meaning grain) This space is a protected area where the birds don’t have to worry about dogs or other animals being around. 1500 kg of grain is laid out every day, all sourced and sponsored by the local Jain community. It is such a great deed they are doing, and visitors are welcome to contribute to this noble cause. Without any help from the authorities so far, these locals are doing a commendable job in retaining the ecosystem they have become a part of.

Feeding ritual begins shortly after the the birds are done feasting on stones. I call it a ritual because the whole extravaganza is no less. They come, they eat, they go, clearing space for the next group. The pattern keeps on repeating until all of them are well fed. There is food for all, and there is no hurry. These are intelligent birds, and they know the importance of community that helps them survive such a difficult yet ardent journey , twice a year, and prepares them for what lies beyond.

Once they are full, they move back to a nearby water body where they spend the day, enjoying the company of visitors who come to see these birds. They are not particularly afraid of humans, and we heard stories from locals about how they befriended the Kurja . Kurja is the local name of these cranes, which also finds a place in many a Rajasthani folk songs, many of which talk about distance from a beloved and urge these cranes to pass on messages of love. 

I cannot possibly summarize how it felt to see this breathtaking wonder of nature. This was something really extraordinary, something so exotic that I think I’ll go visit these winged friends from across the borders again, because once is just not enough.

If the post has intrigued you and you want to know more, Khichan is easily approachable by road and rail. It is a 100 km drive from Jodhpur, and Phalodi is the nearest railway station. Though Khichan has been noticed for the cranes, there are also other things of interest around this small village. The temple town of Osian and the havelis of Khichan are spectacular, but they are fodder for the next post.