Agra Beyond Taj – The Red Taj Mahal

Do you know that Agra has two Taj Mahals? The white one that we all know of, and an unknown red one that was also built as a mausoleum of love. A third one probably would have existed, the quintessential Black Taj that Shah Jahan wanted to build for himself. There are many theories about the Black Taj which still remains a mystery. But the red Taj Mahal is not a mystery, it is just an unknown little monument among the plethora of Mughal era structures that Agra is blessed with. Agra beyond Taj seems to be as fascinating as the Taj itself, with many little secrets buried deep in its narrow alleys.

The Red Taj or John Hessing’s Tomb was built by his wife, Ann Hessing in memory of the Dutch man, who served as a troop in the Maratha Army. Hessing came to India from Ceylon, now Sri Lanka. He joined the Maratha army under the leadership of the Scindias. Impressed by his loyalty, he was given the responsibility of Agra fort, where he was later killed by the British when they invaded Agra.

The Red Taj Mahal was built inside Agra’s oldest Catholic cemetery in the year 1803. The Roman Catholic Cemetery in Nehru Nagar, Agra hosts many graves and tombs of European travelers and soldiers from the 17th and 18th Century, but once you enter the premises, it is the John Hessing’s Tomb that stands apart. The structure is built in red sandstone and reminds of a bygone era when true love wasn’t a myth. Ann Hessing was determined to build a mausoleum for the love of her life, as grand as the Taj Mahal with her limited resources of Rs 1 Lakh. And a beautiful mausoleum she built, with economical red sandstone rather than super expensive marble, which gives this one its characteristic red color. Though the four minarets couldn’t be finished, probably because of the lack of resources, it still is a beautiful piece of architecture. The architecture is Mughal, not Roman and that’s evident in many graves that are part of this Roman Cemetery.

Agra, beyond Taj is a beauty that many do not set to explore. That’s why it still remains a mystery. There are many a hidden secrets that this old Mughal capital is bestowed with. Tourism Guild of Agra is doing a wonderful job of bringing them to spotlight. I was fortunate to be invited for the Agra Beyond Taj tour and The Red Taj Mahal was one of the most intriguing parts of the entire trip.