Forsyth Lodge Satpura – Luxury In Nature’s Lap

Some stories span through multiple blog-posts and Satpura Tiger Reserve sure falls into that category. Forsyth Lodge Satpura invited me to experience luxury in the middle of a jungle along with multiple safaris into the forest. Wanderlust touched new dimensions with this one, with me finally venturing into a day of solo travel as well. Satpura remains special to me, for multiple reasons and many firsts.

The flight to Bhopal was an uneventful one, like always. I don’t know when will that change. There’s always a boring middle aged man or a couple with cranky babies alongside me. Anyway, more on that some other time. Forsyth Lodge Satpura had sent a car to pick me up from the airport and we started our journey from Bhopal to Satpura around 4pm in the evening. Braving traffic through Bhopal, we finally hit the highway before it got dark and small towns with strange sounding names which I hadn’t heard before colored the landscape with their charm. We crossed river Narmada too, but it was dark by the time. Chit-chatting with the driver, getting to know about Satpura and Madhya Pradesh, we reached Forsyth Lodge right in time for dinner. A warm welcome and a refreshing drink later, I headed straight to the dining area which was set up out in the open, under the stars. A blazing fire kept us warm while we hogged on delicious Indian food.Forsyth Lodge has this amazing tradition where the guests gather around a dining table and have their meals together. It saves on resources as well gives opportunities to meet people and share some forest stories. I had missed on the Night Safari that they offer in the buffer areas of Satpura Forests but the stories came alive over a piping hot meal. People had seen a few birds, spotted deer, Malabar squirrel and a couple of owls. Listening to the conversations, my expectations rose exponentially and I couldn’t wait to step out of luxury and into the wild.

We were to start for our first safari the next morning, at 4:45 am. Now, that is an unearthly hour for someone like me who is not a morning person. So, I decided to sleep early and headed to my cottage. I was in for another pleasant surprise. The cottage was made entirely of mud except for the bathroom area yet it was the most luxurious hut I had ever seen. Huge windows, a well made-up and super comfortable bed, and a huge bathroom with everything that one might require during the stay. Five star amenities in a mud-hut was something I wasn’t really expecting even though I had checked the website and reviews before deciding to visit.

Forsyth Lodge is situated in the buffer zone of the forest area, so once in the lodge, you’re actually in the real forest. It was December and I was prepared for it to get cold, but what surprised me was a hot water bottle tucked into the quilts to keep me warm through the night. Brownie points to Forsyth Lodge for this one!

I found this piece of poetry kept alongside some leaflets which had a lot of information about Satpura Forests and it immediately left me craving for the Satpura Ke Jungle poem by Pt. Bhawani Prasad Mishra. There was no network to google that up, so I put that away for later. The lines chosen by Forsyth to describe the forests made me feel that they are responsible people and not just another luxury resort in the heartland of a natural resource. It reinforced my belief that these people are passionate about wildlife as well as forests. The next couple of days I spent at Forsyth Lodge resonated perfectly with my thoughts.

The wake up call for the morning safari came with tea and biscuits. I gobbled them up and headed to the assembly point, still in dark. It was cold and we were advised to layer up for the open jeep safari. Only twelve jeeps are allowed into the forest at a time, keeping in mind that tourism should not disturb the balance of forest. We came back after an amazing safari and some good sightings. Though it is called Satpura Tiger Reserve, the chances of spotting a tiger are very less and we weren’t lucky. We reached the lodge, all dirty but happy and headed straight to our cottages for a long bath. Forsyth Lodge surprised me in daylight. Every nook and corner was a sight to cherish and  I just couldn’t put my camera away…

There was a small pond with water-lilies that caught my attention. Having a natural affinity for water, I spent some time sitting by the pond, clicking pictures. There was a calm that comes with being in the lap of nature. I could hear the wind blow, I could hear the birds sing, I could hear the dry leaves being stepped upon, I could even hear calls of animals I don’t even know the names of.

Soon, it was time for lunch and conversations. Forsyth Lodge was very kind and they arranged for us a meal cooked by the local women from the village. By this way, they ensure they give back to the society a share of whatever they earn from the forest. The women came over and an open air kitchen was set up for them to cook food, the exact same way they do it in their homes, on a chulha. The food was super delicious and I let myself indulge in the local delicacies. It was wonderful to see people from other countries enjoying Indian cuisine and appreciating it the way we do.

It was time for a nap after a hearty meal. I stepped inside the cottage once again and decided to read a book I had carried all the way. Books and travel go hand in hand. I was told that each of our cottages have a beautiful verandah, which I didn’t notice during the night as the doors were all closed because it being a forest area. When I opened those doors, I felt I could read books and write stories my whole life, just sitting there, in the lap of nature, with koels singing exclusively for me.

I spent the afternoon reading and catching up with fellow travel bloggers and the plans for a nap went for a toss. But, it was time well spent. Soon, it was time for our evening jungle walk with Naturalist Varun, who had also accompanied us for the morning safari. We reached the river Denva and it felt it changes shades with the colors of sun. At this time, it was a bright blue, staring at us.

Loaded with sunscreen, caps and  cameras, we were all set for the walk after crossing the river. This time, we were heading into a different area of the forest than the one we went for the jeep safari. The call of the unknown was getting stronger and we stepped into those boats once again, hoping to see interesting things.

We walked for around 5 km and spotted some wild boars, sambar deer,  many birds I can’t name and fresh tiger footprints. We were lucky to not see the tiger this time 😛

We moved ahead and saw yet another beautiful part of the forest, untouched by man. It was crude, earthy and just picture perfect at the same time. I felt, earth was intended to be this way, and a guilt engulfed me. I am still carrying it, we have ruined the planet for all species on earth. It wasn’t supposed to be the way we have made it. It was supposed to be pretty. Not just some places, but everywhere.

Soon, it was time for sunset and we started heading back to where our boat was waiting for us. River Denva was a share of bluish golden during sunset and I couldn’t stop admiring how it changed color with time.

We reached the Lodge just after buying a few souvenirs from the nearby village shop. Though it was a small shop with limited options, I was glad I could bring back another fridge magnet that would remind me of this wonderful trip. Back at the Lodge and super tired after a hectic day, we headed for the in-house spa. But, it wasn’t operational for the lack of a masseuse.

The roof caught my attention and the following picture is just not doing any justice to what it looked like. Clay pots were very nicely arranged and they just took the look of the room to a whole new level. Later, at the Tribal Museum at Bhopal, I came to know the importance of such an arrangement. The story behind it is very interesting and it intrigued me to find out more. The tribals used to mount clay pots on the roofs of their homes, which symbolised the departed elders of the family, and the fact that they are still looking at them, from up above and showering blessings. The clay pots also reminded them that everything in life is fragile, and will end one day, just like the departed souls. Forsyth Lodge Satpura Forsyth Lodge Satpura Forsyth Lodge Satpura Forsyth Lodge Satpura

It was only around 7pm and we already felt tired and sleepy. And hungry. It was time for tea and some hot pakodas  which we loved. Conversations with other guests and with the members of Forsyth Family took over the rest of the evening. We listened to many interesting stories including the one of Forsyth Lodge Satpura, which is a nine year old property, named after a British Forest Officer who served here and researched and wrote many books about the beautiful forests of Satpura. Conversations dwindled as hunger took over and dinner served. We all sat together at the dining area, people from different countries, professions and walks of life, but the differences soon ceased to exist as we bonded over wanderlust and wildlife.

P.S. The next and the final post in the Satpura Series is about one of a kind canoe safari which happens only in Satpura Tiger Reserve and is an experience of a lifetime. Here is a peek into it.